Thursday, 20 October 2011

Skin Types 101

So there are 3 main skin types, with one having 2 subtypes.

To begin with let's start with NORMAL skin type.
This is considered to be the most ideal, though it is not PERFECT! There is no such thing as perfect skin folks!

Normal skin usually is described as having/being:
  • well hydrated ( no wrinkles )
  • dead skin cell exfoliation rate normal (no peeling what so ever)
  • circulatory system functions normal ( no broken blood vessels )
  • balanced secretion ( never shiny, but glowing..if that makes any sense )
  • few blackheads/pores around nose area ( usually under folds )
  • pigmentation levels are balanced ( no freckles or any other type of pigmentation marks)
  • no scars, or any other type of secondary skin symptoms
  • no irritation ( a.k.a. blemish/acne)
  • no abnormal hair growth
If you have this type, you are lucky...all you need to do is keep up and watch for signs of unusual symptoms...then you need to start using some prevention products...SOME! You do not need to change all your elements or your every day skin care products, just maybe change or use some other product(s) on target areas.

Moving on , we can talk about ALIPIC skin type.
This skin type is missing the fatty/oily substances hence the name! This skin type occurs usually in older age groups ( normal production in the glands slow down ), or overly treated dry skin ( I have had this skin type after using Pro-Active over time! ).
Usually these tend to be the most sensitive and easily irritable skin types. The hydration levels are low as a result of not having a barrier of oil to hold in the water between tissue and cells.

Alipic skin description:
  • dry
  • tight pores
  • red, irritable, allergic
  • wrinkles
  • peeling, flaky skin
  • irritation blemishes can occur... think of eczema
  • fallen
  • broken blood vessels
Briefly these are the main "red flag" warning signs!
This skin type is a MAJOR pain and can be utterly devastating...Because it is so sensitive it is difficult to treat externally alone, thus your key treatment will be in internal consumption.
If you feel you have this skin type or experience signs of it..I suggest first of all trying to ONLY drink water and TONS of it! Ideally 3 liters, though we live in a busy world so this can be difficult, try to go for 2! Try to eat as much fruit and vegetables as well to make sure you get your kick of nutrients and vitamins. In order to boost oil levels, eat nuts (if you don't have allergies) and some oily fish as well.
Externally make sure you shop at the pharmacy and you will have to stay away from "commercial"/mid-low quality generic brands. (La Roche Posay is GREAT, Avene, Aderma...)
You will have to probably spend a bit more money, but trust me, it is worth it!
Do NOT Exfoliate, use scented or overly processed products with too many chemicals... Only buy products that are for "Dry, Very Dry, Sensitive, Irritable" skin...if it says "normal" or "combination" PUT IT DOWN.
Lastly, if symptoms last too long and your skin does not improve see a dermatologist immediately!

Last but not least SEBORRHEIC skin type.
This type has two sun types. Both have over production of oil in the glands, paired with other different symptoms generally having to do with the keratinization ( rate of new skin cells forming and dead ones exfoliating off ). The most common is the DRY version (Seborrhea Sicca) and the other, less common is the HYDRATED version (Seborrhea Oleosa).

Seborrhea Sicca description:
  • Oily shine in the T-Zone area
  • Blackheads and whiteheads on the entire face but mostly in T-Zone area
  • Open pores whole face
  • Tightness and dryness of skin
  • Irritation ( Blemishes/Acne)
  • Sandy and/or flaky peeling
  • Broken blood vessels around nose and chin
  • Skin color usually looks "dull"
  • Wrinkles
  • Can become easily irritated
If you believe this skin type is familiar to you, your best bet will to be products to combat irritation, peeling , hydration and secretion. Because this skin is in need of hydration I would opt for a gentle cleanser...either a milky one or a watery based one...nothing that is lathery...so no strong soaps or gels. In the past I have liked Lierac, Bioderma and Biotherm most.
You can however use a tonic to help treat secretion, if you feel your cleanser alone is just not 100% "strong" enough. The next step is one of the most vital! EXFOLIATION! There are many many product on the market... "every day exfoliator" and brushes and these rubbery things that have little tiny spike-like surfaces... I say...FORGET IT! All you need is a GREAT exfoliator that you use every 10 days. Best ones are alpha hydroxy acids and ones which have tiny tiny little "scrubbers"... Ideally , you will probably use the latter one... AHA-s are great but they can be dangerous to use at home, or expensive at the salon. My FAVE exfoliators are MAC MICROFINE and LIERAC SOIN EXFOLIANT LUMIERE VISAGE....They have the best price and product level ratio!
Exfoliation will help prevent irritation ( helps dead skin cells off ) by letting secretion escape the pore, not trapping it inside to become irritated.
Then you want to use some type of serum. Serums are usually water based, so you help your hydration level to increase ... not to mention those nasty irritations also occur because of your dryness... hence the problem of abnormal keratinisation...
Serums also come in a wide variety, treating specific symptoms.
After this, you will still want to use a hydrating day cream. I would opt for a lotion, because of it's light texture. I would stay away from anything containing salicylic acid or alcohol ( THEY WILL DRY! ).
For treating specific areas/ blemishes it is safe to use either/or:
Tea Tree Oil,
La Roche Posay's Effaclar A.I.,
Natural Aloe Vera...even from the leaf!! That's the best!!

If symptoms are abnormal and become worse over time see your dermatologist.

MOVING ON ( I know...FINALLY, right?...)
Seborrhea OLEOSA description:
  • Oily shine on whole face
  • Face/skin looks "full" (hydrated)
  • Blackheads mostly in T-zone, white heads entire face
  • Open pores on entire face
  • Not too much irritation
  • Brocken blood vessels
  • "Dull" skin color
Basically you may have giggled reading "Face looks full"...but it does. This is because there is always a substantial amount of oil on the face , it acts as a barrier, keeping moisture locked in.
The pores are open thus there is less irritation...the sebum can escape the pores easily and because the hydration is more "normal", the dead skin cells peel off at a normal rate, not trapping sebum in the pore.

If you feel this is the type that is most familiar to you, you will need to regulate the secretion levels firstly then tackle secondary symptoms..such as blood vessels...
You can use some stronger face wash, something of a gel or soapy substance...VICHY is a great brand for this skin type... and many other more "generic" brands are ok to use too...
Use a toner, it will also help to regulate secretion levels.
You should use a serum or a light lotion for the day time... I have not myself experienced this skin type, but what i would do is carry a little spray bottle with toner in it and a little bottle of a light lotion in my bag...then during the day I can evaluate which one I need to use.

Keep using an exfoliator of corse!

As with the previous, if symptoms worsen, or do not subside contact your dermatologist.

What do you think? And what should the next post be about? Acne or My skin care rutine?
I will do both but I want each post to make sense with the previous one...and not have them all over the place. What do you think?







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