Sunday, 13 November 2011

Creating flawless skin with makeup ( Tools, Primers, Tinted Moisturizers, Foundations, Correctors/Concealers, Powders)

There are many MANY different ways, products, tools, methods etc of applying foundations, not to mention, all of us have different preferences of how much coverage we want/like.

There are no wrong views and there are no rules of how much you must use. However, there can be errors with application, choosing the right (colors) and textures.

I am going to be writing what I use and what I think works best for EVERY DAY NATURAL coverage that will ensure the most flawless skin without looking plastic and fake.

Firstly, TOOLS:
These are all the brushes I use for foundations and concealers. For more fluid like substances I prefer the brushes on the right photo and the two larger brushes on the left photo.
For creamy and more cake-y substances (usually these are full coverage foundations, concealers and correctors) I like to use the brushes on the left photo.
When I am applying to larger areas I use the bigger brushes and for smaller areas and blending along the hair line I use the ones on the left.
The more dense the brush is, the thicker the application will be.
SPONGES AND THE BEAUTY BLENDER:
Sponges eat the product, even the beauty blender! Average sponges give thicker coverage and the Beauty Blender lets you build coverage from light to thick. I will not go in to detail about them, because I don't use them often.
CLEANING YOUR BRUSHES:
There are a few ways to clean your brushes.
If you have the time for your brushes to dry you can hand wash them in luke warm water with a facial wash even ( If it's safe for your face, it will be safe for the brush ), make sure it foams a bit.
From time to time, cleans them with disinfectant. Usually you will not need to wait for them to dry, but the chemicals can be harsh on the bristles, so vary the two methods... Give them a good wash every 10-14 days. ( If you are working on many people, wash them as often as possible! )


PRIMERS AND TINTED MOISTURIZERS:
Primers are NOT A MUST. I myself don't use them too often. When my skin is acting up (red), or it's color/ smoothness is uneven.
Primers lock in your moisturizer and help keep your foundation in place besides evening out the skin's physical texture.
Tinted moisturizers I generally do NOT like! They tend to be wrong in color and texture...to orange-y and "strange" in texture, thick, oily and cake-y. There are though a few that I like to USE AS PRIMERS!!

Smashbox Photo Finish Illuminising Primer:
It's texture is mousse-like and dries to a smooth feel. Many primers come off being waxy or heavy (Sephora brand, Too Faced, Urban Decay...etc.).
It's light reflecting particles optically even out skin discoloration. I love this most when the skin is a bit sun tanned as it leaves a very pretty sheen. It is a bit dark for my skin color so I use it mainly on my cheekbones and cheeks and down the sides of the nose. Blend it with your fingers to make sure you warm up the product and are fully able to spread it on to the skin.
It's a great product and it does keep your foundation set all day and will help lock in moisture. You can buy it on line or at Sephora in a small size ( like the image above ) found usually at the check out line!
I would recommend any of the Smashbox primers as they have many different types, they do what they are supposed to do and the product is very spreadable so it will last!

PIXI ILLUMINATING TINT & CONCEAL:
Great product! It is in fact a moisturizer, but I use it as a primer. The texture is similar to a very light but creamy lotion. It has a sheer pearly shine and a bit of a tint. It gives the same effect as the Smashbox Photo Finish Primer, but if you are in need of more moisture this is probably a better solution...you can always add a primer after if you want, though I think it's unnecessary.
Two other great things about this product is the fact that it comes in a good range of colors, so you'll be able to find one that will blend in to your natural coloring, and the other great attribute to it is the concealer in the cap. The texture of it is quite dense and dry, so I personally don't use too much of it, but it's great for touch ups, just toss it in your bag and you're all set!
The product is very spreadable and the price is friendly as well, so it's great value for your money.

LAURA MERCIER TINTED MOISTURIZER (OIL FREE) :
Literally the ONLY tinted moisturizer I would recommend buying. It's texture is very light as it is water based, the coverage can be built from light to medium thickness and it comes in a great range of shades. None of them have any of the nasty orangey coloring to them. They are wonderful! Order on line or you can purchase it in Sephora or department stores.
They are a bit pricey but they are worth it!


FOUNDATIONS:
Over the many years I have used and tried a good range of brands and textures. Of course as the skin changes and ages, it will need different types of textures to fulfill the needs for ideal coverage. For the last few years now, I have finally found the right textures and methods for application. The key is to build up coverage needed using thin and light textures RATHER THAN immediately using full/thick coverage products.
This way you will be able to evaluate and create natural coverage without risking putting on too much and looking fake. If you need to cover blemishes or just feel some areas need more product , use a thicker foundation or corrector on THAT area and blend the edges. WATER BASED foundations are THE BEST foundations available!! It's harder to find them but they are great for all skin types, not to mention they look and feel the best!

DIANNE BRILL FRESHWATER PEARL FOUNDATION:

This is by far one of the best foundations I have ever come across. I wish I still had some to take a photo of what the substance looks like, as it is quite remarkable. It's like a smart foundation. When you squeeze it out of the tube it looks like there are about 3 different shades in it..a lighter shade, a bit of highlighting shine and a more natural shade. You take a fluffy foundation brush and dab is in to the foundation and then apply it to the face with small circular movements. This helps blend together the different shades in the foundation and truly gives the most natural finish! ( The skin is built up of several tones of pigmentation, so this product works amazingly giving a real effect. )
It has a bit of a vanilla aroma to it, which some people find irritating, but it did not at all bother me, nor any of my clients I used it on.
The brush it comes with is totally useless though... but you get over it. It is a water based foundation so you will have to work it on to the skin and can't take too much time applying as it "dries" faster.
I am very sad though that it is not an easy product to track down..I went through like 3 of these for myself and had one more in each color to use for clients. I hope I can find them again at some point! ( Last place I found it was at The Plaza Hotel in NY, in the shopping area... check it out if you can! )

MAKEUP FOREVER FACE AND BODY:
This is my second favourite foundation available on the market. The reason why it comes in second place is because it is one flat tone and I know how amazing the Dianne Brill one is with the multiple tones. Otherwise it is amazing, all the attributes that are found in the Dianne Brill one are found in this one too. The bottle is a bit bigger and the texture is a little more gel-like. You have to shake it before you pump it on to the back of your hand. IT's very spreadable, I only need about 2 pumps for my entire face and neck area. It has no scent. The coverage is buildable... it's a great product, I am on my second bottle and will probably have to order a new one via the french Sephora, or maybe try a new brand... (CHANEL has just come out not long ago with a similar product, but I don't usually like buying these types of brands...we shall see...)
They come in many many shades which is also a major plus!
Use it the same way as the Dianne Brill one, or use a large flat/dense foundation brush to stroke strips of product on the face then switch to the fluffy foundation brush and blend in circular movements.

BOURJOIS 10h SLEEP and HEALTHY MIX SERUM:

Both of these foundations are amazing for their price! I am currently loving the serum as it is water based and still gives great coverage ( and is not a high-end expensive brand ). The 10 h Sleep one is amazing as well , I can't remember if it is water based or not, but none the less the coverage is light weight and buildable. I did though find 2 attributes to it, that would put it in 4th place on my list. Firstly there is some chemical in it that can be a bit irritating on the skin...it doesn't cause pain, but it can be uncomfortable. Secondly it is a bit yellow.
These products work best as "add on-s". Meaning, use these products to give a bit more coverage if you need it as they give bit more coverage, but since they are light weight you will still be left with a natural finish and a light weight feel.
I use the Healthy Mix Serum on my cheeks middle of forehead and chin area after applying the Makeup Forever Face and Body. Use one pump amount and apply with a fluffy foundation brush in circular motions. Blend outward from the "center" of the face.

SHISEIDO DUAL BALANCING FOUNDATION:
Not water based, but lighter in texture and doesn't feel overly oily or creamy. I didn't want to put a photo of it because it isn't overly amazing, though it is worth mentioning. It contains illuminising particles as well to give off the more natural look, but the downside that I dislike about this product is that, the same way as the MAC fluid foundations seem to change color (turn pinky or orangey), so does this one! Also it doesn't come with a pump and you have to pour it out every time, also when you start running out it is impossible to get the product out! Grrr!! Overall not bad, but I wouldn't buy it again.

BEST THICK COVERAGE FOUNDATIONS:
Double up any of these as concealers or use them on "bad skin days".
DIANNE BRILL SMOOTHING COVERAGE FOUNDATION WITH BLACK SEA PEARLS:
I can not find the right size image so, sorry but no photo. It comes in a glass pot with a screw lid. I bought 3 of these to use for TV work. They are amazing. I don't know how or why but it gives the most beautiful full coverage ever! It is quite thick so it takes a bit of technique to work it on to the face. It also contains illuminising particles to give the skin a beautiful finish. It dries quite matt but not dry-powdery...there is no need to use any other corrective makeup with this product. When I find where to purchase it, I would buy it again. Only downside is there aren't too many colors available and the darker ones are a little yellow. (i.e.: number 4)
MAC FULL COVERAGE FOUNDATION:

Not too much to say about this product. It's full on, full coverage, in a thick cream texture. I am contemplating buying a few shades, but don't know how much use I will get out of them. On photo shoots I like using more light coverage stuff... this is ideal for TV or for those times when thicker coverage is needed. Highlighting and contouring with these products are great!! When I worked with this, I used a sponge because it was for television, but I am sure a brush will work out just fine. You definitely need to use a powder to set this, as it doesn't have a matt finish, but has a oil shine to it. I love that MAC does have a huge range of colors and shades, but you have to make sure you get the right one!! Especially as this is THICK coverage so in natural light , if it is even a bit off than your natural shade, it will be very unattractive!

KRYOLAN ULTRA FOUNDATION:
Love these foundations for a few reasons, firstly because the color range is very impressive, secondly because you can buy a 12 piece empty tin case and put together your own palette with their refills and last but not least the price is very low! The quality is similar to MAC Full Coverage but it is less oily and thick. I can most compare it to a lighter creamy-er concealer. Great for TV or for adding a bit more coverage where needed.
I always have my 12 piece tin with me on jobs. You can buy them online but they usually have them available in all professional makeup stores! ( London , check website for store locator : www.screenface.co.uk, New York at Alcone Store .. I don't know if I spelled that right, Budapest: Kryolan City Store on O utca! )

Concealers/Correctors:
In general I don't like to use these types of products. They are usually very dry and way too light in color ( i.e.: YSL Touche Eclat or any other stick type or potted products). I usually just use a thicker foundation to do the concealer's job.
Apply them with your fingers or with a concealer brush, just make sure you use a tapping motion.
With that said there are a few products I do like and they are the following...

MAC PRO-LONGWEAR CONCEALER:
Filling in the number 1 slot, is this creamy, spreadable product. It is great because of the following; you only need about half a pump size to conceal under eye shade and to cover blemishes ( usually), next positive is that it is super spreadable and blends seamlessly!
Two downsides are the following;
The pump lets too much product come out, so you will feel like you are wasting product ( get a small container and put the excess in to that and use it as an everyday touch up case! Just throw it in your bag , then you don't need to take the real thing with you.)
Obviously, the price...it may sound strange but I hate spending too much on concealers. I don't know why, it's just a "thing" I hate.
None the less I am on my second bottle and use it on clients for TV and photo shoots and will be sure to purchase it again when I run out! I highly recommend it, it is great!
Make sure, again, to choose the RIGHT shade!! For under eye areas go for warmer shades NOT pink or very light/white...it will just make everything look grey and dull!!


TOO FACED ABSOLUTELY FLAWLESS CONCEALER:


This is the cheap version of MAC pro-longwear, but it is a great product as well!! The only downside to it is that the color range isn't as large as MAC (of course) and the textures, though similar, this one is a tiny bit thicker. If you are on a budget this is a great option! Very creamy, spreadable and gives great coverage. Very good value over all. Check if the shades work for you!

Kryolan Derma Color:
No image , as it is the SAME LOOK AND STORY as with Ultra Foundation. The texture is much dryer!! I suggest getting a few shades and only use them when you have severe skin discoloration. Not suitable for everyday use, but is good to have as a back up and is great value for your money... the price I believe is the sam as Ultra Foundation.

POWDERS:
I only use them for work (usually), because my skin is quite dry so I don't mind if I have a little shine and moisture.
If I DO use a powder, the only one I use is the following:

KRYOLAN TV POWDER in TRANSLUCENT:

I recently ( year and a half ago ) bought this large "box" and then used an empty case and filled it with the powder. It will last forever, and is great for every skin type or color! Not too much more to say about it!
I prefer loose powders with no color, over any pressed, colored powders.

Ok , so that is it for an intro in to my top foundations concealers, primers, powders and what not...
I hope you enjoy, and try them out! I promise you will not be let down... I haven't decided on what the next post will be about yet...any ideas?


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